Wedge Mountain Wedgemount Lake Unmarked Routes
Wedge Mountain is a very difficult scramble from the Wedgemount Lake hut up steep boulder fields, a long glacier and the narrowly abrupt ridge to the summit of Wedge. Elevation gain is 1300 metres from the Wedgemount Lake hut and another 1220 metres from the Wedgemount Lake trailhead to the hut! Allow 6 or 7 hours hut to hut and make sure you know what you are doing. Wedge Mountain is a very popular summit to achieve as it is the highest mountain in all of Garibaldi Park and the Garibaldi Ranges. It's quite daunting as to reach it you have to make your way along the spectacular wedge-shaped spine that gives it its name.
There are several different routes to reach the summit of Wedge, this is one popular and comparatively easy route (though by no means easy). From the hut follow the scree valley down the left side of Wedgemount Lake and make your way up the left edge of Wedgemount Glacer. Continue up the glacier aiming for the centre of the glacier valley above. As you continue up the left edge of the glacier you will have to move more directly up the middle-left of the glacier as the left becomes very abruptly steep. Once you reach the main valley of the Wedgemount Glacier you will see it split in two directions. Left goes to the Weart-Wedge Col and right goes to the valley between Wedge and Parkhurst Mountains. Aim for this difficult scree filled valley. Make your way to the other side of this scree valley until you see the west ridge of Wedge Mountain. Scramble up this steep and difficult, crumbling scree slope staying to the right of the absolute ridge for most of this part. This leads to the west ridge and obvious route to the summit.